owls by the lakeshore

We leave Veracruz after the best coffee I've had in Mexico, served with a milk pouring flourish in a wonderful cafe.  A whole ecosystem lives off the cafe - tobacco and newspaper vendors winding around the table, shoe shiners kneeling at the feet of business men, busking musicians and nurses measuring heart rate while the customer sips their strong coffee.

Driving along the coast and then towards the lake of Catemaco, we see landscape changing from tropical coastal to desert to rich, green swamp with amazing trees dripping with vines. Stopping for lunch by the lake, girls in jeans and trainers walk through the water and fishermen elegantly toss their nets from their boats. It is off peak tourism time so we are the only people in the restaurant besides some musicians drinking tequila. They strike up a song with the lines, directed at Gustavo, 'dont worry, we will find you a new wife, yours is clearly a drunk' as I sipped on my cool beer. Gustavo gives them some money for more tunes...

Along the lake we find our spot for the night, and before darkness falls Gustavo and Maya head out in a kayak. Total lack of health and safety culture here has its benefits as Maya is wedged between Gustavo's legs with a life jacket and off they paddle past the iguanas.

Once Maya is asleep we sit on our balcony and watch an owl sitting on a branch opposite, like we are watching the TV. It is well disguised in the tree and doesnt move for a long time until the head suddenly swivels around, stares straight at us indignant at our presence.

When we wake in the morning rain is drumming on our roof and the path is a stream. We pack and leave, picking up breakfast on our way.